Paris
Paris is known as la ville de l’amour, the city of love. And is it any wonder? With cobblestone streets, accordion music softly playing in the background, boulangeries with freshly-baked croissants…it all feels like a storybook brought to life.
The Basics
Parisians have an unfortunate reputation of being rude. This was not my experience when I visited. That said, I am white so I can’t speak to what the city is like for a POC. Paris is a very diverse city—20 percent of residents are immigrants and 40 percent of the city’s children have at least one immigrant parent. France has a highly secular culture, which has contributed to prejudices against Muslim and Jewish populations. My cousin once asked me if I could visit anywhere, where would it be? I enthusiastically replied, “Paris, of course!” His response was, “You know they’re antisemitic over there. They hate the Jews.” Antisemitism and islamophobia are on the rise across Europe, but that doesn’t define an entire country or its people. I will say, I wore my Star of David necklace openly in Paris and never got any kind of bad feeling from anyone about it. On the other hand, my Armenian friend who I traveled with got stopped at the airport for “random” searching and questioning. It’s something to keep in mind, but I wouldn’t let it stop you from visiting. There are decent people everywhere and the people I encountered in Paris were all very nice except for one cranky old woman, who I remember fondly.
Knowing good etiquette will get you far in Paris. Locals don’t have much patience for cultural differences:
*Always say “bonjour!” when entering a shop, when a server greets you at a table, etc. It’s considered rude not to. Also, don’t forget to say “merci.”
*It would also be a good idea to brush up on your language skills. The French appreciate it when travelers make an effort and have disdain for those who don’t.
*Keep your voice down. We Americans tend to have louder speaking voices than many Europeans and it can really grate on people who aren’t used to it—especially on the metro.
*When dining out, you will need to ask for the check. Parisians like to sit at cafes and restaurants for hours, and servers aren’t going to rush you to leave. You will need to flag them down to get your check. Also, while it’s totally fine to tip, it’s not required!
*If you find yourself dining with a local, it’s considered polite to serve others before yourself. Fill their glass with wine before yours, for example.
Some other valuable things to know:
* G7 Paris: a transportation service offering fixed rates to and from the airport
* Next Stop Paris: an app offering details on public transit across the city
* Avoid restaurants with English translations, a bunch of flags, or multi-page menus. These are tourist traps.
*Want to dress like a Parisian? Pack neutral, comfortable, minimalist clothes and casual chic outfits. Natural makeup will help you blend in as well.
L’arrondissements
Paris is broken up into 20 arrondissements, or districts. Here’s a quick breakdown of each one:
1st Arrondissement/Louvre: The Royal Palace, Tuileries Gardens, the Louvre Museum, the Seine River
2nd Arrondissement/Bourse: The Old Stock Market, textile businesses, restaurants along Rue Montorguile, Tour Jean-Sans-Peur
3rd Arrondissement/Temple: historic private mansions, small art galleries, authentic Asian cuisine, the Picasso Museum, cafés and wine bars
4th Arrondissement/Hôtel de Ville: Centre Pompidou, Notre Dame Cathedral, Place des Vogues, LGBT community, the historical Jewish quarter of Paris
5th Arrondissement/The Latin Quarter: The Panthéon, Jardin des Plantes, Sorbonne University, Musée de Cluny, historic first settlement of the Ancient Romans
6th Arrondissement/Saint-Germain-des-Prés: Luxembourg Gardens, Saint Sulpice Church, stomping grounds of artists and intellectuals like Ernest Hemmingway, cafés, art galleries
7th Arrondissement/Eiffel Tower: The markets of Rue Cler, Napoleon’s tomb, the Paris Sewer Museum, the Eiffel Tower, the Rodin Museum, Musée d’Orsay
8th Arrondissement/Elysée: The Arc de Triomphe, Champs d’Elysées, the Luxor Obelisk, Grand Palais
9th Arrondissement/Opéra: Opéra Garnier, Fragonard Perfume Museum, Pigalle, nightlife
10th Arrondissement/Canal Saint-Martin: The Gare du Nord and Gare du l’Est train stations, the iron footbridges of Canal Saint-Martin, vintage shopping, cool bars
11th Arrondissement/République: Less touristy area with hip cafés, youthful clubs, fun shops, and the Edith Piaf Museum
12th Arrondissement/Reuilly: The greenest district in Paris, with parks like Parc Floral, Bois de Vincennes, and Parc de Bercy. Musée des Arts Forains, Cinémathèque Française, wine bars
13th Arrondissement/Butte-aux-Cailles: Colorful murals, a robust Chinese community, Cité de la Mode et du Design, Manufacture des Gobelins, Gobelins Manufactory
14th Arrondissement/Montparnasse: Parc Montsouris, the Catacombs, Cité Universitaire de Paris, adorable cafés
15th Arrondissement/Vaugirard—Grenelle: A quiet, residential area home to Tour Montparnasse, Musée Bourdelle, Parc André Citroën
16th Arrondissement/Chaillot—Auteuil—Passy: Art Nouveau architecture, posh hotels, le Chalet des Iles
17th Arrondissement/Batignolles-Monceau: A mostly residential area with a charming village atmosphere
18th Arrondissement/Montmartre: A bohemian area home to the Sacré Coeur, the Moulin Rouge, Dali Museum
19th Arrondissement/Buttes-Chaumont: A unique, off-beat area away from the tourist crowds, home to Canal de l’Ourcq, Parc de la Villette, Parc Buttes-Chaumont, and Cité de la Science et l’Industrie
20th Arrondissement/Belleville: A trendy area away from tourist crowds, home to Père Lachaise Cemetery, Asian markets, and hip bars
l’Histoire
Basilique du Sacré-Coeur
We stayed in an Airbnb in Montmartre, a little apartment close to a primary school. On occasion, the sound of children playing could be heard from our window. Walking distance from our stay was the Sacré-Coeur, a beautiful basilica dedicated to the sacred heart of Christ built in the 19th century. Stained glass and intricate reliefs depicting religious iconography decorate the structure, which sits on the highest point in Paris. The view up there is breathtaking.
The Catacombs
Over six million people are buried beneath Paris in the Catacombs. In the late 18th century, there were major public health problems tied to the city’s cemeteries. This led the city to move the dead to quarry tunnels deep underground. Today, they are open to the public to explore. Be warned—you will be going up and down a long, winding, and narrow staircase. I nearly collapsed climbing back up. If you are claustrophobic, the tunnels may be a bit of a challenge. You will be surrounded by human remains as well. Pay that the respect it deserves. I saw graffiti both on the walls and on actual human bones, which made me feel sick. Remember that these bones belong to real people who had hopes, dreams, fears, and people who loved them.
The Eiffel Tower
You can’t visit Paris without seeing the Eiffel Tower. I mean, you can, but why would you? My friends and I stopped by a small grocer and picked up a baguette, cheese, prosciutto, olives, and sparkling wine to snack on. We set up a little picnic in front of the Eiffel Tower, playing 1960s French tunes while we enjoyed our aperol snacks. As the sun set, the tower lit up, and it was such a lovely and iconic sight.
The Panthéon
Built in 1764, the Panthéon stands proudly in the Latin Quarter of Paris. Resting there are some of the most iconic names in French history, like Voltaire, Marie Curie, Jean-Jacques Rousseau, Victor Hugo, and Èmile Zola.
Notre Dame
For over 863 years, the Notre-Dame Cathedral has sat in Paris’ 4th arrondissement. This gothic structure was almost lost to the world in 2019 when it went up in flames. Luckily, restoration efforts have been highly successful. When I visited in 2021 you could only enjoy its beauty from afar, but as of 2024, it is back open to the public. Guess I’ll have to come back!
Other notable sights:
Musée de la Vie Romantique
Arc de Triomphe
Montparnasse Cemetery
Fragonard Perfume Museum
l’Art
The Louvre
You can’t leave Paris without going to the Louvre. The triangular glass building is itself an iconic landmark. I highly recommend getting skip-the-line tickets ahead of time, because the queue to get in can be dauntingly long. Once in, you’ll find yourself surrounded by Greek sculptures, renaissance paintings (like Divinci’s Mona Lisa), and striking baroque pieces. I’d give yourself a good couple hours to explore and take in all the art.
Musée d’Orsay
If you love French impressionists, you’ll adore the Orsay. Here you’ll find the works of Van Gogh, Monet, Renoir, and beyond. There was also a great exhibit on the art of the moving picture, an art form that got its start in Paris in 1895. The building is cool as well, as it was once a train station.
The Moulin Rouge
Of all the many things I planned for my trip to Paris, this was what I was most excited to do. This legendary cabaret show got its start in 1889, and today you can still see Belle Époque dancers do the can-can. The current show they put on is called Féerie, and tickets cost between 93 and 261 euros, depending on the date and time you select. When you approach the venue, you are greeted with a giant windmill, lit up in red. The inside of the building is full of vintage posters of dancers, glitter, and ornate chandeliers. The show itself was campy, sexy, and full of sparkly grandeur. Some of it was a bit cheesy, but I loved it. There were dances, crazy costumes, acts of strength and daring—pure entertainment. I think it’s worth seeing one time, just for the experience.
Art Galleries
Paris is a city of artists, and you will find several small galleries strewn throughout. I especially loved exploring the various galleries in Le Marais. Even better, you can follow it with a stroll through Place des Vosges and then sit down for the best chocolat chaud of your life at Carette.
Street Art
One person’s graffiti is another person’s work of art. Paris is covered in murals and graffiti, and I took a lot of photos of some of my favorites.
Tatouage
Every time I go on a trip, I leave with a tattoo as a souvenir. This tradition started when I got my very first tattoo at Bleu Noir in Montmartre. There’s a painting of Joan of Arc that I’ve always loved, and I figured it would be a perfect way to commemorate my trip. I did my research and found Steve Taniou on Instagram several months before my trip. He has a very unique art style, and I thought he’d be perfect. We communicated in French over DMs and I booked the tat. He was so nice, and really talked me through my first tattoo. There’s something special about being told you are a badass in a thick French accent. He knew a little English, I knew a little French, and it was enough to carry on a conversation about sci-fi (he’s a huge Dune fan) and local recommendations. If you’re interested in booking with him, he’s @stevetaniou on Instagram and he currently works at La Marque Tattoo.
Other notable spots:
Paris Opera
Musée Rodin
Jewish Art and History Museum
Cinematheque Française
Les restaurants
Before anyone gets mad at me, this is not a list of THE BEST restaurants in Paris. I would not presume to know that, and I think that’s mostly subjective anyway. I will, however, tell you all about the absolute best things I ate on my trip.
Breizh Cafe
This creperie serves up some of the best Breton-style crepes in the city. I tried one with potatoes, creme fraiche, and smoked trout—it was quite tasty! They also offer a variety of sweet crepes as well.
Dirty Dick
We came upon this ex-pat tiki bar quite randomly as we were looking for a bar in Quartier Pigalle. Dimly-lit and dive-y, this tropical cocktail bar has a very cool vibe. The drinks are dangerously tasty and the clientele are friendly!
Season
The pictures say it all. I had one of my best breakfasts at Season, an adorable eatery in Montmartre. I opted for a stack of pancakes doused in a delicious chocolate-hazelnut sauce and a gorgeous lavender latte.
Berthillon
While exploring, I decided to pop into Berthillon, an essential Paris ice cream shop that opened its doors in 1954. I got myself a nice cone and enjoyed it as I walked along the Seine. Highly reccomend!
Le cafe ou le chocolat chaud?
That was the question that plagued me throughout my trip to Paris. Historically, I have never been that into hot chocolate. But this ain’t no Swiss Miss. The chocolat chaud that I tried in Paris was the best I have ever had. I first tried it at Cafe de Flore, an iconic spot in Saint-Germain-des-Pres where 20th-century intellectuals and artists like Ernest Hemingway hung out. When you are served hot chocolate, you get a cup full of rich, melted chocolate. Alongside it, there is a pitcher with steamed milk and a towering cup of chantilly cream. Put it together and you discover heaven on Earth. Carette and Cafe Le Nemours were two other cafes that I just adored and highly recommend. As for le cafe, my go-to for a morning cappuccino was KB Coffee Roasters. It was walking distance from my airbnb, had incredible scones, and was amazing for people-watching.
Les Deux Magots
Snails! Don’t knock ‘em until you try ‘em. I have always loved escargot. My mother used to take me to this small French bistro in Arlington, VA for my birthday when I was a teen. We’d split the escargot as a special treat. Les Deux Magots is another iconic spot, beloved by the intellectual crowd of the 20th century. They are known for their giant escargots, which I happily ate. Don’t be intimidated by them. They don’t have a very strong flavor on their own, but they are served smothered in herby garlic butter. You scoop the little buggers out with a cute little fork and then sop up the remaining garlic butter with crusty bread, usually baguettes. Tres bien!
Bar Hemingway
Tucked inside the Ritz Carlton is the legendary Bar Hemingway, once the stomping grounds of the famous author. Drinks are incredibly tasty—and pricey. Each cocktail is garnished with a real white rose. They don’t take reservations, so you may have to wait a while for a table. That was fine by me, because I spent a good 30 minutes exploring the Ritz. Their bathroom faucets are golden swans. Pretty cool.
Pastries
Paris is known for their pastries, and Odette is known specifically for choux cremes. They have so many wonderful flavors and I had to stop myself from buying an entire box. What Odette is to choux cremes, Laduree is to macarons. I did get myself an entire box of those! Bonus pic of a boulangerie display case full of the most beautiful pastries.
Hardware Société
My friends were exploring the area around the Sacre Coeur when it started pouring rain. That’s when we slipped into Hardware Société for some rainy day breakfast. It was incredible!
Harry’s New York Bar
The early 20th century saw a lot of artsy and intellectual Americans moving to Paris. Harry’s Bar opened in 1911, and is the oldest cocktail bar in Europe. The bar was literally dismantled from Manhattan’s 7th Avenue and moved to Paris, and went on to invent some of the most iconic cocktails like the sidecar, the bloody mary, and the white lady. I loved the classic ambiance and the damn good Manhattan they served me.
Sonny’s Pizza
While the other “American in Paris” type places I’ve discussed so far gave off very 1920s vibes, Sonny’s Pizza is giving modern-day Brooklyn. My friend got reeled in by the branding, but the pizza did indeed slap.
It isn’t difficult to find great food in Paris, so enjoy exploring!
Les magasins
Ahh, window shopping in Paris. Take me back! I want to go back! Whilst exploring, I found so many cool shops from perfume stores to rubber ducks to vintage designer shades.
Some of my favorite finds were these blue Emmanuelle Khanh sunglasses I bought, perfume, a book on French philosophers from Shakespeare and Co., and this shop full of angel figurines. And, of course, the beautiful memories.
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