London
I remember in 2015 telling my college roommate Dotty how much I loved living in a history-rich city like Richmond. She shrugged and said it was hard to see anything in such a young country as really historic. She was from Yorkshire, England, you see.
I rolled my eyes at the time, but walking around London in 2024 I started to understand what she meant. We were surrounded by structures that were thousands of years old. Even walking into the pubs felt like entering an old, magical dimension.
The Basics
*If you’re arriving late at night, be aware that the trains stop running around 11 PM. A night at an airport hotel may be more economical than an expensive taxi ride.
*The Heathrow and Gatwick express trains will get you into the city within 30 minutes, but if you’re looking to save money, and you’ve got the time, take the Piccadilly line from Heathrow or the Southern stopping service from Gatwick.
*You’ll need an Oyster card to get around, which you can pick up for a small deposit at any Underground station.
*There are plenty of buses, but it’s worth spending a quid or two on a London Bus Checker app to help you plan journeys and give you live waiting times.
*London taxis can get very expensive for long journeys. Mini-cabs should always be prearranged, and there are information lines and apps to help you find local companies—never get into a car with someone soliciting for business on the street.
*The Victoria is the quickest and most reliable Underground line…the Northern is the worst.
*Oxford Street is horribly crowded and you can get the same brands elsewhere.
*Only tourists eat at Angus Steakhouses. You don’t want to be a tourist, do you?!
APPS TO DOWNLOAD:
*London Tube Live: Up-to-date info on delays, updates, departure information, and routes.
*The Pub Finder: Crowdsourced app for pubs and bars, including reviews and tips.
*London Theatre Direct: Showtimes and tickets for London plays and musicals, including last-minute deals and discounts.
*London Pass: Free interactive London guidebook.
DAY ONE
We flew from Dulles International Airport to Heathrow Airport. There, we bought our Oyster cards and took the tube to our Airbnb. We took the Piccadilly line and got off at Earl’s Court, a short walk from where we could be staying. Along our walk, we came upon a cute pub called The Troubadour. Hungry and tired after a long day of traveling, we popped in for a bite to eat. The inside was so charming, with deep wood furniture and antique lutes hanging on the walls. I got myself a hot and comforting shepherd’s pie, perfect for the dreary rainy day. With our bellies full, we walked to our Airbnb, a bright and cheerful flat in Chelsea.
DAY TWO
The next day, we decided to explore Holborn, London’s historic law district. Impressive law buildings and storefronts with powdered wigs in the windows made up the area. Breakfast was at Prufrock Coffee and then we headed to the Charles Dickens Museum.
The museum sits inside the author’s home, and there you can learn details about his life. We saw the bed his wife passed away in and the desk where he penned bestsellers like Oliver Twist and Great Expectations. After, we got lunch at Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese, a historic medieval pub that’s been open since 1667. In fact, the pub was featured in Dickens’ A Tale of Two Cities.
After a hearty pub lunch, we found a quirky arcade called Novelty Automation. The games were all satirical in nature, and it all felt more like an interactive art show. Each arcade machine was handmade by the owner. The “Pet or Meat” game allows you to spin an arrow to determine the fate of a cute little lamb. You get a thorough pat-down from the “Autofrisk” machine. You can stick any object into the “Is it Art?” machine, and a paper mache art critic will determine whether or not the object can be considered art. It was really silly and fun.
After the arcade, we checked out the Twinings Tea Shop. Open for over 300 years, it’s the oldest tea shop in the city. That’s where I grabbed the first of my souvenirs, an assortment of tea. While we didn’t do this, it’s possible to book a tea ceremony masterclass at the shop.
We went on to rest in a nearby park. There, we watched pigeons pat around and just enjoyed each other’s company. For dinner, we split several mezze dishes at Honey & Co., a Middle Eastern restaurant. After dinner, we crossed the street to a little market where we bought cheese, crackers, and wine for the Airbnb. We ended the night snacking while watching a very silly episode of Doctor Who.
DAY THREE
Covent Garden was the destination for our third day in London. We all split up and took our time exploring all of the wonderful shops. One of my favorites was a very charming toy store. I grabbed breakfast from a French cafe and then sampled chocolates and Turkish delight. Eventually, my attention was held by a street performer who was wearing only Union Jack briefs, nipple tassels, and a blue mohawk. Seems no matter what city you go to, there’s some half-naked guy lying on a bed of nails in front of a crowd.
I met my old college friend Dotty and her boyfriend Tom for lunch at Barrafina, a Spanish tapas restaurant. These days she lives Bristol, and I was thrilled to see her in person for the first time in years. We ate pan con tomate, marinated olives, and chicken thighs topped with herby romesco sauce. Very good! After lunch, we poked in and out of antique shops and dusty bookstores. One antique shop owner gave me the “cousin discount” since I was visiting from America, and I thought that was quite nice. Soon, the sun started to set and it was time for dinner. We ate at a tandoori Indian restaurant and then grabbed a pint at the pub next door.
DAY FOUR
The next morning started with a very nice breakfast at The Wolseley. It was just beautiful inside, airy and ornate. I ordered eggs royale and a pot of Earl Gray and was not disappointed.
We probably would have spent much longer sitting and enjoying our tea, but we had a tour booked at the Globe Theater. It was another rainy day, and we were the only ones on the tour—so we got the extra benefit of a private tour for free. The tour was fascinating. We learned that the people who established the theater didn’t have much money, so they actually broke down and stole wood from another theater in town in the dead of the night. Death scenes used real animal blood, and those in the front row often got spattered with it. It was normal for audiences to be loud, jeering and gasping and shouting at the actors the way we might do to our televisions. There was so much I learned on the tour, and our guide (an actor himself) was so kind and knowledgeable.
After the globe, we enjoyed modern art at the Tate Museum. They had a Yoko Ono exhibit going on at the time. I had never seen her art before, and I really liked it. We probably spent close to two hours exploring the huge museum.
Then it was time for a truly British institution: afternoon tea. We had it in the Cellarium Cafe & Terrace, which sits inside the iconic Westminster Abbey. Scones were served with jam and clotted cream alongside tiny quiches and smoked salmon sandwiches. There was a tower of sweets to enjoy as well, with macarons, dark chocolate orange tarts, opera cakes, and little lemon tarts. It was lovely! I adore afternoon tea and have gotten into the tradition of treating my mother to a different one in D.C. for her birthday each year. We’ve tried the one at the Ritz, at Blue Duck Tavern, and the St. Regis. Our trip to London fell during her birthday, so the tradition continued! Can I be honest, though? The tea we had at the St. Regis in D.C. was ten times better than the one we had in London. True facts. There are endless places to have it in London, though so I bet there’s a fantastic one waiting for me the next time I visit.
After tea, my mom met up with one of her old boarding school friends while my sister and I explored Westminster Abbey. There’s something so surreal about being somewhere so old, with so much history. This church has been around since 960 AD. Within its vaulted walls, 40 monarchs have been coronated. Queen Elizabeth I, Charles Darwin, and Isaac Newton are just some of the historical figures resting there. It’s really breathtaking, with Gothic architecture, stained glass, and beautiful sculptures, reliefs, and tapestries everywhere.
After the abbey, I dragged my sister to the Churchill War Rooms. The line was incredibly long—we stood there waiting for over an hour. My sister was growing impatient and irritable, as she didn’t even really care about the war rooms. I’m the insufferable history nerd in the family. I will say, it was rather overpriced. But if you are interested in history, you will find it fascinating. The only issue was it was both narrow and very crowded, so we were both feeling overstimulated. I think if we weren’t packed in there like sardines, I would have enjoyed taking my time and reading everything.
By the time we finished, our mom was ready to meet back up with us. It was time to see where the royals lived. We cut through St. James Park on the way to the palace. It was scenic, overflowing with flowers and walking paths. There were several very friendly ducks waddling around, and we even peeped an entire family with chicks.
Buckingham Palace was in sight. It was a sight to behold, too, with ornate gates and incredible sculptures. We got to watch the King’s Guard march in front of the palace doors and explore the grounds, imagining all that had occurred within the structure’s walls.
Having got our fill of royalty, we had dinner at a pub. Fish and chips soon became my favorite thing to order in London. Then, we were off to Victoria Palace Theater to see Hamilton! There’s a fun irony to seeing a musical about the American Revolution on a British stage with British actors. Obviously, it was incredible. The perfect end to a day full of art and history.
DAY FIVE
The full English breakfast quickly became an obsession of mine. Even writing this now, I long for those tomato-y beans. We started our next day at Leadenhall Market, where we did a bit of shopping. I wanted to get one piece of British designer clothing and found my prize in a forest green Barbour jacket.
Then we were off to the Tower of London, where we went on a very interesting tour. Tours are given by Yeoman Warders, also known as Beefeaters. The Beefeaters have been guarding the tower since the Tudor period. These are not mere tour guides—each Yeoman Warder has at least 22 years of military service. The tower’s history is fascinating. It was built by William the Conquerer over 1,000 years ago and has been the home of beloved ravens, the crown jewels, and many, many, prisoners. Poor Anne Boleyn was coronated there and then returned years later to be executed. She remains buried there to this day. We got to see the Ceremony of the Keys, take in graffiti etched into the wooden walls by prisoners over centuries, and hear the mysterious ghost story of the two princes. Ravens have lived on the grounds for centuries. Legend says that should the ravens leave the tower, the kingdom will fall. Some of them got remarkably close to us and seemed quite friendly. I had to fight the temptation to pet one. This was one of the best experiences of the entire trip and I highly recommend checking it out.
DAY SIX
While my mother met more boarding school friends at The Shard, my sister and I went shopping on Brick Lane. We started at Old Spitalfields Market, which is packed with various food vendors, artisans, clothes, and more. We went on a Thursday, which happens to be when the antique market was, and what a selection! I bought an original 1800s nature illustration of birds. Not a print—an original. I also got some cool clothes from a local designer. Brick Lane Vintage was another incredible spot, where I found some funky gold cat eye sunglasses. My sister and I weaved in and out of record shops, a broccoli-themed art gallery, bookshops, and other odds and ends.
Next, my sister and I headed to The Family Business Tattoo Parlour. I love getting souvenir tattoos, and this time my sister was joining me! We each got tattoos of the white rabbit from Alice in Wonderland, but in different designs. My artist was this beautiful Italian woman, and she was so nice to talk to.
SIDE TRIP: CAMBRIDGE
Cambridge is an easy train ride away, and there’s so much to see. We explored the beautiful botanical gardens and then went on a soothing punt tour down the River Cam. Highly recommend.
The university is also home to the expansive Fitzwilliam Museum. There, we saw everything from medieval armor and weapons to Ancient Egyptian coffins.
SIDE TRIP: OXFORD
Oxford is a literary fan’s dream. It’s the place that inspired Alice in Wonderland, Lord of the Rings, and The Chronicles of Narnia. Several scenes of the Harry Potter films were shot on its iconic campus. We took an hour-long historic walking tour of the university and went on to grab coffee at Queens Lane Coffee House—the oldest coffee shop in Europe.
HONORABLE MENTIONS:
Here are some other great things to see in London:
*Kew Gardens
Huge greenhouses filled with trees, plants, and flowers from across the world
*Sir John Sloane’s Museum
The house-turned-museum of Neo-classical architect John Sloane
*The British Museum
With 8 million works, it is the largest collection of art and historic artifacts in the world
*Saint Paul’s Cathedral
Sitting at the highest point in London, this Anglican cathedral is the seat of the Bishop of London. The cathedral serves as the mother church of the Diocese of London in the Church of England.
*The National Gallery
Founded in 1824, it houses a collection of more than 2,300 paintings dating from the mid-13th century to 1900.
*London Transport Museum
The world's leading museum of urban transport with galleries of vintage London trams, trains & buses.
*Natural History Museum
Houses incredible exhibits like the blue whale skeleton hanging in Hintze Hall, the Dippy the Diplodocus dinosaur skeleton, and the Earth Hall with its extensive collection of minerals and rocks.
*Victoria and Albert Museum
The world's largest museum of applied arts, decorative arts and design, housing a permanent collection of over 2.8 million objects.
*Kensington Palace
Birthplace of Queen Victoria, this palace remains home to members of the royal family including the Prince and Princess of Wales and their children.
*Harrods
A luxury department store home to over 3,000 brands.
*Japan House
A cultural center resenting the very best of Japanese art, design, cuisine, innovation, and technology.
*The Design Museum
A museum that exhibits product, industrial, graphic, fashion, and architectural design.
*The London Eye
A huge observation wheel on the South Bank of the River Thames offering a panoramic view of the city.
*Columbia Road Flower Market
A flower market that’s been open on Sundays since the 1860s.
*Village Underground
A creative, cultural hub housed in revamped tube carriages, shipping containers, and a warehouse. It’s frequently the site of cool musical performances.
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