Edo’s Squid

The day I met Karl, I fell in love. It was in 2015. I was a VCU History major; Karl was a plate of pasta from Edo’s Squid.

Tucked away through a small door on Harrison St., this local spot is easy to miss if you’re not looking for it. Back when I first tried it, I lived at the Grace & Broad dorm just around the corner from Edo’s. Finally, my roommates and I decided to give it a try. Being the broke students we were, we decided to split one pasta among the four of us. That pasta was called Karl. A simple combo of mushrooms, olive oil, and a ton of garlic, this heaping plate of pasta became a favorite treat for us.

Ten years later (how has it been an entire decade, wtf???!) I returned to this old college haunt of mine. Walking up the narrow staircase leading to the restaurant, I took in the scattered old family photos hanging from its mustard-colored walls. I assume this is the family of Ed Vasaio, a second-generation Italian American continuing his parents’ tradition of running restaurants. He owns other local Italian eateries like Mamma Zu and Dinamo, while his parents have run restaurants in the D.C. area since 1948.

The restaurant is small and intimate, without feeling too cramped and chaotic. One large table is just covered in garlic cloves and discarded peels, while a wall towards the back is lined with various wine bottles. Since I was riding solo, I opted to eat at the bar. Crusty bread and olive oil held me over while I perused the menu, and then I ordered squid with arugula, garlic, and lemon to start. The squid was so garlicky, which I love, with just the right zing of lemon juice. There was a good mix of rings and tentacles, which I also appreciated.

Of course, I wasn’t leaving without pasta. I thought fondly of Karl, but decided I was ready for something new and exciting. I got spaghetti with sausage, broccoli rabe, and ricotta. The pasta had a kick of heat to it, which was delightful paired with the creaminess of the ricotta. Huge chunks of Italian sausage were mixed in—definitely got my money’s worth.

I saw the bartender make this tiny drink with a clear fluid topped with three espresso beans. Curious, I asked her what it was. She told me it was Sambuca con la Mosca and explained it’s an anise-flavored liquor (tastes strongly of licorice), and the espresso beans are added to represent the Father, the Son, and the Holy Spirit. I had to try it. The anise flavor is intense, but the aftertaste is pleasant and sweet. That said, I probably won’t order it again.

My number-one rule is ALWAYS leave room for dessert. And at Edo’s you can’t go wrong with the tiramisu. There’s nothing I hate more than a dry tiramisu, and this tiramisu was perfection. The ladyfingers were soaked in espresso, the mascarpone was sweet and rich, and the top was absolutely coated in cocoa powder. The only thing that would have made it better was a cappuccino, which they didn’t have.

Now I have enough leftovers to feed me for days. Except for that tiramisu. I gobbled that up in one go. Bada-bing-bada-boom!

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